How do you install cultured stones?

For a Wall

You'll Need >>

Weather resistant barrier (WRB) Expanded metal lath Staples Manual, pneumatic or electric stapler Type N mortar mix, or components Mortar tints Wheelbarrow or mortar mixing tray Cultured stones Metal jointing tool Grout bag Wet tile saw Wide-mouth nippers Masonry hatchet Dust mask Safety glasses

Preparing the Work Area

Estimate the amount of stone and mortar you will need using this formula:
Wall area = length x height of the wall
Window area = window length x window height
Wall area covered by corners = linear feet of wall corner x .75
Square footage required = wall area - window area - wall area covered by corners

Apply a weather resistant barrier, or WRB, to the wooden exterior of the wall. Note: WRB is not usually required over cement or masonry.

Staple sheets of galvanized, expanded metal lath over the top of the WRB.

Spread a good mixture of cultured stone--different sizes, shapes, textures and colors--around the work area, so you have many options during installation.

Mix a batch of Type N mortar in a mortar tray or a wheelbarrow. The mortar must be firm and moist before it is ready for use. Stir in a mortar colorant if desired to enhance the look of the cultured stone.

Use a mason's trowel to spread mortar onto the wall surface, 1/2-inch to 3/4- inch thick. Do not spread any more mortar than you can cover with stones before the mortar sets up and becomes unusable.

Apply the Cultured Stone

Begin applying the cultured stones from the top down; this avoids getting wet mortar on stones below the work area.

Install the stones so the joints are as narrow as possible--no larger than 1/2-inch-wide--to create a natural effect. Press the stones firmly enough into the mortar to push some of the mortar out from behind the stones. Applying pressure to the stones also will ensure a good bond with the mortar.

Apply the corner pieces first, alternating the long and short legs over the work area. Then apply flat pieces and work toward the center of the work area. Focus on keeping the joints consistent.

Cut, trim and shape stones to fit with wide mouth nippers, a masonry hatchet or a wet tile saw. Use small pieces to fill in gaps between larger ones. Use a dust mask and safety glasses when cutting cultured stones.

When the mortar has become "thumb-print dry," mix the grout so it is thin enough to be pushed through a grout bag but thick enough to stay in place in the joints. Apply the grout in the joints, then run a metal jointing tool over them to smooth out the joints, remove excess grout and make the installation look as professionally finished as possible. Drying times will vary.

For the sidewalk, driveway

You'll Need>>

Circular saw
Masonry blade
Wide-mouth nippers
Tinted mortar
Grout
Bucket or wheelbarrow
Notched trowel
Pointing trowel


Churn mortar and water with a trowel or shovel, adding color tint to blend with the surface color of the cultured stone. Mix until you have a smooth but stiff consistency that can stick to a concrete wall and not move.

Use a notched trowel to trowel on an even coating of mortar 1/2-inch thick or in keeping with the manufacturer's instructions for your particular stone style. Work in small areas, applying mortar and stone as you go.

Press individual stones or netting-backed stone tiles into the mortar, working from the top of the project down to the bottom so that no mortar lands on the cultured stone. Fit stones to one another like puzzle pieces so that grout lines are somewhat uniform. Cut stones as necessary to achieve the pattern. Allow the area to dry and cure for at least 24 hours before proceeding.

Spray or paint on grout presealer to prevent the rough stone surface from being marred with grout. Allow the sealant to cure according to the manufacturer's specifications.

Use a pointing trowel to apply grout mortar between the cultured stones if your stone calls for grout. Stacked-stone look and other designs are not grouted for aesthetic effect.

As a siding

You'll Need>>

Asphalt paper vapor barrier
Staple gun
Electronic stud finder
Chicken wire
Galvanized screws
Screwdriver
Mortar mix
Notched trowel


Remove the old siding down to the sheathing.

Install an asphalt paper vapor barrier on the sheathing. Overlap all edges by at least four inches. Staple it to the sheathing.

Use an electronic stud finder to locate the studs. Mark each stud with a prominent mark.

Install chicken wire over the asphalt paper vapor barrier. Overlap the edges of each section by two inches. Fasten the chicken wire into the studs with galvanized screws. Space the screws six inches apart on the studs. Screw in the screws half way, push the wire over the screws and then screw them in the rest of the way. Use additional screws if necessary to securely attach the chicken wire.

Mix mortar following manufacturer's directions. Spread a thin layer on the wall and exert enough pressure on the trowel so the mortar sticks. Use the notched edge of the trowel to leave scratches in the finish. This will insure that the next coat of mortar adheres properly.

Allow the first coat of mortar to cure for 24 hours.

Apply the faux rock panels. Begin at a bottom corner. Use the trowel and apply about an inch of mortar to the back of each one as you place it on the prepared wall. Press the panels into the wall using a sort of circular pushing movement. Immediately clean off any mortar that adheres to the front surface of the panels. After the first course of panels have been applied, stagger the subsequent courses, similar to laying traditional brick, so the seams do not line up.

Allow 24 hours for the mortar to dry and cure.