Perhaps this web site will help you find your answer: http://forum.doityourself.com/motorcycles-snowmobiles-go-carts-atvs-go lf-carts-102/
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Submitted 362 days ago...
Perhaps this web site will help you find your answer: http://forum.doityourself.com/motorcycles-snowmobiles-go-carts-atvs-go lf-carts-102/
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Answer 2 / 2 - Submitted 314 days ago...
You would need to see if you can find the manual for that bike to get the true specs. I am no expert on that bike, but you can ususally get an engine running by first, setting thse screws 1 to 1 1/2 turns out. Then, start the engine. Make the final adjustments on each screw as follows. Start by assuming the idle mixture is to rich. While the engine idles, turn the idle screw slowly in (clockwise).
Listen to the engine. If it sounds like you are improving it, keep turning slowly, noticing where the screw is when it seems like it is the best. But keep turning the screw, till it starts running rough again, and go back to where it was, when it was the best. If in the beginning, it sounds like it is getting worse, go the other way with it (counterclockwise), using the same idea. When you have it where it idles decently, rev it up and adjust the hi-speed screw the same way. Go back and forth between the two screws until it idles well on its own, and revs up smoothly without any hesitation.
if the carb has been properly cleaned and re-assembled, this should get you back to where you want to be. This is the way I do chain saws and weed eaters. Factory specs are only a rough guide. They may or may not be best for your particular engine. If you have two carbs, of course do this on both. Then you may have to calibrate the two carbs, if you have two. This balances the two carbs so that they have equal air pressure between the two. There is special tool you need to do that, but I think you can get it from JC Whitney. Hope this helps.
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